New Takes on the Po-Boy at The Sammich

OK—we’re calling it. The curse of 7708 Maple St. is over. Over the last few years, the location became known as "the place where restaurants go to fail." In fact, one of the last restaurants to occupy the space slapped up a sign, swept up some leaves, and never even opened. The Sammich, which opened in March, is most likely the coup of that infamous spot. It better be, because we want it to stay, like, forever.

The menu is graced with thoughtful variations on the po-boy. The shrimp po-boy gets pickled okra in lieu of traditional pickles, and hot sauce buerre blanc and five-pepper jelly in place of mayo and ketchup. A fried chicken po-boy is packed with pulled pork and slaw. Small plates include sow’s meat, duck fat fries, deviled eggs with crabmeat, capers, and cornichons, as well as smoked tuna dip. These deviations are smart, tasteful, and they strike just the right balance between traditional and new.

With Satsuma, Jamila’s, Coté Sud, and Ba Chi Canteen just down the street, The Sammich joins the restaurants that are making Maple Street a great little restaurant destination for locals rather than solely a boozy refuge of the Greek-letter-wearing set.